Off the runways: Accessories also impress during Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week just finished one of its busiest seasons, with throngs of brands arriving to display their latest wares to buyers and the press. Only some of the action took place on the runways, with several accessories brands hosting intimate presentations showing their Fall/Winter 2023 collections. FashionNetwork.com stopped by to check out the goods. Here's our take on some of the best.
This is the third collection since the master shoe designer's brand relaunch. This season he evolved some of his staple styles such as the 'Pumpette'—a pump or boot style with an angled toe—which was reimagined in tan shearling (an emerging trend), an upcycled denim jacket style, and a charming patent leather style with snaps to hold satin bear heads in different configurations. The latter two, the designer said, are part of his sustainable efforts by reusing existing materials. The pillow bow sandal style features a down-jacket effect ribbon. A draped satin shoe that evolved from last season's Crash sandal looks to be a fast-developing core style. The reserved Frisoni is quick to say it's an intimate collection. "I am a bit shy in my way of promoting my work. I like the idea of people coming to see me. We are cautious about growth to do it in the right way. It's better to work with the right players, such as Antonia, Ikram, Capital, Maxfield, etc. We go for these stores that we know personally."
This season, Hardy looked to some of his favorite muses for his Fall/Winter 2023 collection, designed with the Left bank Parisian elegance in mind. Standouts include the Stella pump and bootie with a mini kitten heel that recalls the late 90s supermodels and the groovy Lady Miss Kier of 90s era band Deee-Lite in a flashy metallic silver. A sportier take, the Scuba sandal, was inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe model and pioneering female bodybuilder Lisa Lyon with a cut and indentations that recall her chiseled physique. The Sean platform is inspired by actress Sean Young's Blade Runner character in a 40s-inspired futuristic suit.
For his first Paris Fashion week presentation of his self-described French queer jewelry brand, Kreit debuted the "Blooms" collection, further demonstrating his elevated hand-painted acrylic designs. "The vibe is a balance between industrial and organic such as thorns, pistols, and buds inspired by Art Nouveau themes. There is something sexual about it, and I love the idea of bad taste—which at the time the movement was considered—that elevated to something else," he told FashionNetwork.com. The designer, who formerly designed sets for Bureau Betak clients such as Saint Laurent, Jacquemus, and Dior, also makes a splash with his electroformed hollow hoops and ear cuff sets. With retailers such as SSENSE and H.Lorenzo in Los Angeles and collaborations with brands such as Poster Girl and Nina Ricci, where Kreit made the jewelry for Harris Reed's debut collection, things are looking bright for this creative new costume jewelry line.
When co-founders Christoph Tsetinis and Ruby Wallen founded Published By in 2020, they decided the world didn't need another leather handbag. Alas, taking their combined skills that included traditional leather goods design and automotive innovation, the duo, with Tsetinis on creative and Wallen on commercial, offer hard case chrome handbags that the likes of Beyoncé and Dua Lipa have embraced. This season they introduced the irresistible Stone Cloud bag inspired by the rocky shore and crystal blue waters found in Greece. The bag links together chrome 'pebbles' backed in leather as a shoulder bag.
On their first trip back to the City of Lights since the pandemic, Hunting Season founders Danielle Corona and Lena Baranovsky chose the mesmerizingly beautiful Zen Ogata Japanese restaurant and tea house to show their latest collection of handcrafted bags made in Spain and using Colombian artisans woven straw. The multi-level space was the perfect spot to highlight the brand's signature leather and straw bags which evolve slowly by design. The brand also introduced home accessories made from molded leather. Evening clutch styles in velvet add a little vintage glamour to the collection. These bags, priced from $595 to about $1200 and carried at Matches.com and Net-a-Porter, look richer than that, adding to the value proposition.
The indie sustainable shoe brand, started by two former Chloé accessories professionals, Paule Tenaillon and Marine Braquet, held their first big PFW splash to celebrate their collaboration with influential stylist and fashion director Julia von Boehm. They created a loafer style inspired by von Boehm's styling of Nicole Kidman. Held at Crudus, an Italian bio restaurant in Paris' 1st arrondissement, the trio unveiled five color block or crystalized shoe styles made using LWG-certified leather scraps left behind by other fashion houses in its shared Montopoli, Italy factory. Lucky guests were gifted shoes to try, which came with coordinating Egyptian cotton socks.
Designed by Achilles Ion Gabriel, the quirky Spanish shoe brand's directional collection continues to focus on sustainability by developing shoes geared towards zero-waste and minimal ingredients. A new sneaker demonstrates this, the Tormenta—storm in Spanish—recalls waves in its design, while the Tossu knit sock sneaker uses injection bonding to bypass the use of glue. The cowboy-style Venga has the right kind of funk suitable for a ranch hand or a rock star.
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