London Collection Men confirms its positioning

Jean-Paul Leroy

Опубликовано
6 янв. 2016 г.

Ever since its inception in June 2012, the London Men's Fashion Week has never ceased to significantly improve, making small additions without essentially modifying its DNA. The 8th edition, scheduled from 8th to 11th January, will not be an exception to the rule.

Victoria House continues to serve as a venue for the shows, and this season will host all the showrooms for some 48 designers in order to make the organisation easier for buyers and the media.

A certain number of the shows scheduled for the weekend will also take place at a new official venue, 180 Strand, a location that is well-known since it already hosted shows by Thomas Tait and Christopher Kane in the past, and more recently, the 'Louis Vuitton Series 3' exhibition.

In total, 65 designers will showcase their Autumn-Winter 2016 collections, through presentations and catwalk shows. Slightly fewer than last June, when they were 77, but much more than the 46 designers featured in the very first edition of June 2012.

A significant fact is that this season 46% of designers have gone for a presentation: "The increasingly frequent use of presentations is an occurrence that is noticeable in women's fashion shows too," explained Nathalie Constanty, a fashion, beauty and design consultant for Parisian department store Le Bon Marché. "It's part of a new strategy used by some brands who wish to promote a more direct contact with buyers and the media."

The international press indeed continues to appreciate the event: according to the British Fashion Council, London Collection Men (LCM) will welcome 12.3% more journalists than in January 2015.

The latest edition of LCM will be a subtle blend of established designers and emerging talent, again welcoming Burberry, Paul Smith, Christopher Kane, Margaret Howell, Alexander McQueen, Coach and Dunhill. Tom Ford is this edition's main absentee. In December, he announced his intention to present his men's and women's collections for the Autumn-Winter 2016 season on 18th February, as part of a series of select presentations at the New York Fashion Week. 

As for young blades, Grace Wales Bonner will showcase her Autumn-Winter collection as part of the MAN shows on Friday. She earned the title of emerging designer in men's fashion at the latest British Fashion Awards in November. Liam Hodges too will join the posse this year of young designers recipients of the Newgen Men support initiative, which already includes Agi & Sam, Alex Mullins, Astrid Andersen, Bobby Abley, Cottweiler, Craig Green, Diego Vanassibara, Nasir Mazhar and Pieter. 

A must-see: the presentation promoted by Mr Porter and Japanese retailer Beams Plus, who are already working together, of six new emerging Japanese designers: Aloye, Sasquatchfabrix, Marvy Jamoke, OrSlow, Kics Document and Teatora.