PARIS, Feb 27, 2008 (AFP) - Christian Lacroix toned down his usual flamboyance in his autumn-winter collection on Wednesday, showing refined clothes which immediately looked more wearable than his cutting-edge couture.

Creation Christian Lacroix collection fall-winter 2008/2009 - Photo : Pierre Verdy/AFP

He used a lighter hand on detail, so for once there were not too many things crying out for attention, and there was more overlap, with some fabrics and shapes emerging as clear favourites for next season.

A fine wool treated to look like wrinkled elephant skin was the first star on the catwalk. He used it for his opening number, a pure white winter coat with a dramatic upturned chalice neckline and outsize sleeves cropped at the elbow, the rest of the arm enveloped in a black feather gauntlet.

The same tactile textured fabric was turned into a sharply-tailored jacket in fuschia set off against a slithery white satin skirt, with origami folds in front standing out slightly from the waist.

Striking prints were leitmotifs in the collection.

A bold harlequin print with diamonds in purple, orange, lime and acid yellow in duchesse satin was turned into a puffball mini skirt and off-the-shoulder ruffled dress, while devore velvet in ruby, green and blue was printed for a "stained glass" effect but looked hand-painted.

Cabbage rose sleeves and bows adorned the grander evening gowns, while more fragile frocks had feather embroidered sleeves or even light-as-air ostrich feather capes thrown over the shoulders.by Sarah Shard